Application freezes or crashes during games and Discord, accompanied by unusual artifacts?
Application freezes or crashes during games and Discord, accompanied by unusual artifacts?
Hey all, seemingly randomly my computer has started to crash when attempting to run games or discord (The application freezes (no error) then I usually close it myself). I first experienced the crashes just last week while playing a Minecraft Modpack, my game would freeze after a few minutes, however I managed to avoid further crashes after dedicating more RAM to it. Since then I have attempted to play BattleBit Remastered (if you haven't seen it before, Google it and you will see it should be effortless to run) but after a few minutes in that game it froze, sometimes it's in the menu before I can even load into the game. However, while troubleshooting this issue (I was under the assumption that it was just BattleBit with this problem) my Discord also crashed. I then realised there was a much bigger problem at hand. I have tried all the things listed in the dot points below to try and resolve this issue, but nothing has worked. Also, after resetting my PC I wanted to see if an even easier-to-run game "SpiderHeck" would work fine, but even that crashes. Sometimes it's just the game that crashes, but other times Discord crashes right after the game too.
Since I typed the above paragraph I tested an older graphics driver, which resulted in the artifacting shown in the attached images (Artifcating_1.png, Artifcating_2.png), hoping that someone will be able to recognise the issue based on that (btw the artifacted pixels flicker). A restart got rid of them for some minutes before they came back, as did upgrading my graphics driver to a newer version. Still have them now, seems like things are just getting worse!
Specs:
CPU:
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core Processor
GPU:
RTX 2080 MSI Gaming X Trio
Motherboard:
B45M2 AMD B350M M-ATX
RAM:
16GB (2x 8GB) T-Force DD4 [3200 Mhz]
PSU:
Thermaltake SMART BX1 750W 80+ Bronze
Storage:
Kingston M.2 [NVMe] 240GB SSD, 2 TB HDD (disconnected HDD during troubleshooting)
Graphics Driver:
Started with the latest 536.67 but have since tried 536.23 & 536.40
OS:
Windows 11 (Version 22H2 [OS Build 22621.2070]
• Have updated graphics driver to the latest version and tried the aforementioned versions
• Have tried with one 8GB RAM stick in at a time
• Have tried setting the game to compatibility mode (Windows 8)
• Have run Windows Memory Diagnostic tool with both sticks in ("mdsched.exe" into Run) returned "No problems detected"
• Have run "sfc /scannow" ...on first attempt it detected corrupt files and 'repaired' them, seemed to fix nothing. Subsequent attempts have all returned "Windows Resource Protection did not find any integrity violation."
• Have reset Windows with "Keep my files" option, when that didn't work I then completed a full reset
• Have tried running a game without Discord installed
Artifacting examples:
Task Manager:
HWMonitor:
Thanks to anyone that replies
😎
A full reset isn't the same as a clean Win installation. The best option is to format your OS drive and start fresh with a new, clean Windows setup. Your "artifacts" might actually be a malware infection, so you'll need to wipe all drives in your system to remove it.
This is different from using a USB flash drive to install Windows and formatting the drives when asked about the installation location. I thought it was a "clean install." I believe "full reset" might be mistaken for something else, so I meant I did a clean install (before any of the artifacts appeared).
It's interesting to consider if the GPU could be responsible. Someone mentioned the artifacts might be linked to a 'dead' GPU.
I understand why you'd think the modpack is an option, but I wouldn't recommend it. The drivers I got were from NVIDIA's official site.
Could the PSU be the issue? It seems reasonable for an average user not to focus much on the power supply, especially compared to someone helping with technical problems. I recall there was a discussion about upgrading to 80+ Gold, but opinions differed—most people chose CPU cooler and RAM speed improvements instead.
Thanks for your response.
The way the drive is formatted plays a crucial role in ensuring a clean Windows installation. Without proper formatting, there are alternative methods to repair or reset Windows while still preserving the existing kernel. That's why I opted for a clean Windows install rather than just a reset. I believe the problem isn't related to the GPU. The issue seems connected to this specific symptom: if the hardware were faulty, you'd consistently encounter problems. The GPU functions like an on/off switch—either it renders correctly or causes artifacts. These unexpected artifacts typically appear at random times after a reboot and aren't indicative of a hardware failure. On the other hand, malware behaves differently; it doesn’t immediately start but begins to activate after some time since the system restarts. Additionally, Task Manager and hwinfo screenshots don’t show any artifacts. If the problem were GPU-related, such signs would be present. Given that you have a Ryzen processor, you lack the redundancy provided by an integrated graphics unit. This means you can't simply detach the GPU to test it with MoBo. Therefore, I recommend proceeding with a second clean Windows installation. It’s free and, if the issue is software-based (which is more likely), it should resolve with a fresh install. This approach will eliminate all software-related problems, including bloatware and malware (except rootkits). If the problem persists after the clean install, we may need to investigate hardware concerns. A key consideration? The combination of GPU and PSU might be involved. If that’s the case, you might wonder why such setups are offered. For most users, the answer is simple. If you’re aware of your PC’s components, you should understand what you’re dealing with. However, it’s important to recognize that a PSU is a critical part of the system—ignoring its importance can lead to significant issues. It’s essential to remember that a reliable PSU powers everything in your PC. Overlooking this could result in serious damage. The recommended steps are: #1 Perform a clean Windows installation #2 Install a new, high-quality PSU For the PSU options, Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HX/HXi/AX/AXi are solid choices. All my PCs use Seasonic, while I have two PRIME TX PSUs and one Focus PX PSU (full specs with pictures available in my profile). For other brands, any PSU rated Tier A will suffice. PSU options: https://forums. Regarding the "Smart" PSU, it’s currently Tier D.
I used my laptop to generate a USB with the Windows 10 installation media (remembering I was on Windows 11 before, but thought it might be worth trying). After booting from that USB, I removed partitions and formatted the drives using the custom installer.
Next, I performed these actions:
- Scanned for Windows updates (none found)
- Obtained chipset drivers from my motherboard's official site and restarted the PC
- Updated the BIOS to the newest version (using the site mentioned)
- Manually downloaded the latest Nvidia Graphics Driver from the official site without GeForce Experience, then restarted
- Installed Steam and BattleBit to verify functionality; no unusual behavior observed so far
- Downloaded both Steam and BattleBit for testing purposes
Unfortunately, I encountered a black window after about a minute in-game (refer to image). Also, I noticed the shortcuts for "SpiderHeck" and "Discord" still appeared after the wipe. It might be related to cloud services due to the symbol in the SpiderHeck shortcut’s bottom left corner (see image).
Thanks for your response. I’ll keep an eye out for any artifacts from these steps, but I’ll let you know if they reappear.
Appreciate the help! I’m still open to suggestions from anyone. Thanks all.
Here are some alternatives you could use:
- Try another game
- Use full screen mode
- Borderless full screen mode (if available)
Your temperatures seem normal, and the GPU is handling hotspots well. It’s unlikely your GPU is overheating. If it were, that could be the cause.
From what we can tell, you’ve resolved the "artifacts" problem, haven’t you?
The weak PSU might still be a concern, though it doesn’t directly create artifacts. It can lead to many other problems, such as a black screen after a short gaming session, random PC restarts or shutdowns during games, and a low probability that the PC will recover from these issues caused by a failing PSU. The worse the PSU quality, the greater the risk of damaging other components.
I haven't experienced any crashes while browsing, although I haven't spent much time doing so. There have been no crashes that actually reboot the PC; it seems only the applications crash. I've used windowed, full-screen and borderless settings. Recently, I purchased a Corsair RM750e 750W Gold ATX Modular PSU, which felt much better than my previous power supply during startup. I tested it in the BattleBit shooting range and it crashed after about 30 seconds—not with a black screen, but by closing the application. I also tried another game called SpiderHeck, which crashed after a minute of tabbing out. However, on a second attempt, I managed to play for around five minutes without crashing, so I tested multiple tabs to see if it would cause issues. It did crash again, but then artifacts reappeared. Restarting resolved the artifacts. I went back into BattleBit and noticed a specific in-game wall briefly displayed the artifact before my game crashed. I don’t know why this happens.
It looks like this might be related to a graphics card problem, perhaps due to something that started earlier. I’m wondering if I need to replace the graphics card and if there are any suggestions. I was considering getting a second-hand 2080 series or even a 40-series card with my current specs, but unless there’s a special fix, it might not work.
While RMe is better, RMi or RMx would've been even better. But i digress.
Yeah, GPU seems to be the problem.
One, last ditch effort, would be running your PC in Safe Mode.
If artifacts also appear in Safe Mode, it would be further evidence of hardware (GPU) failure. But if no artifacts appear, issue could be with 3rd party software, which is automatically disabled when running Safe Mode.
IF your GPU is on it's way out, i'd look towards inferior PSU, used thus far with the GPU. Poor PSUs can feed out of spec voltages to hardware, degrading and damaging them over time, until hardware fails.
In similar example: if you eat contaminated food, you won't drop dead on an instant. Instead you get food poisoning, resulting in stomach aches and vomiting. Eat contaminated food on daily basis and you'll end up 6 feet under. Essentially the same is with your GPU and other hardware, which has been fed the "bad" power by your poor PSU you used.
For new GPU, i, personally, would not buy used GPU. I'm not rich enough to buy used hardware.
This is age old debate, if to buy used hardware. Now, some hardware is completely okay to buy used, e.g CPUs. But since we are talking about GPUs, people usually fall into two categories;
1. Those who swore by it, to buy used.
2. Those who avoid it like plague.
Since there was a cryptocurrency mining craze, that bought up almost all RTX 30-series GPUs, 2nd hand market is currently flooded with used mining GPUs. Buying used GPU is questionable and buying mining GPU is even worse idea.
To give you insight, look what Steve, from GamersNexus says about it;
at 11:42;
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1Yp6pQRdns
Coming back to why i said that i'm not rich enough to buy used;
To me, used GPU price is 50% off from MSRP. That, for the sole reason that used GPU doesn't come with warranty and i have to take a risk. Sadly, most used GPUs aren't sold as 50% less than MSRP, but instead 20% less or even at MSRP prices. <- That, to me, is too expensive to buy a used GPU. Since when used GPU should die, i have to pay far more for 2nd, used GPU, than going with new GPU off the bat.
Example:
Let's say brand new GPU is $400. Used GPU is $300. <- If i were to buy used, spending $300 and it dies, i have 0 redundancy (no warranty) and i have to pay another $300 to get 2nd, used GPU. That makes total of $600, far more than brand new GPU would've costed, if i would've gone with new one. Diff would be $200. At these prices, better to go with brand new GPU off the bat.
But let's say used GPU is $200. Then, when it dies, i need to pay another $200 to get 2nd GPU. That, in total, would be exactly same ($400) as it would've been when going with new GPU.
And if the used GPU is old mining GPU, my price would be 50% of what used GPU would've costed. Since there are huge risks with mining GPUs. Those can die within days. So, if brand new GPU would be $400, i'd pay $200 for used one but only $100 if the used GPU was used in mining.
I'd rather pay full price and have a warranty, just in case something happens; rather than seemingly paying less at first but most likely paying far more down the line. I'd rather have redundancy than taking a risk and hoping for good luck.
Your Corsair RM750e can sustain up to RTX 3060 Ti or RTX 4070 Ti.
Performance wise, equal to your RTX 2080, would be: 1080 Ti, 3060 Ti, 4060.
Price wise, with brand new prices;
from ~$300 - RTX 4060
from ~$350 - RTX 3060 Ti
from ~$600 - RTX 4070
from ~$800 - RTX 4070 Ti
RTX 4070 Ti would be best you can put in your build, but it will also cost the most;
RTX 2080 vs RTX 4070 Ti comparison:
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nv...4026vs4146
RTX 30-series and 40-series need the new +12VHPWR connector but when buying brand new, you'll get the adapter with the GPU.